A History of the Shiitake Mushroom in Japan

Mushrooms have been a staple of Japanese cuisine for centuries. In fact, ceramic mushrooms dating from the ancient Jomon period suggest they’ve been consumed for over 4,000 years! Kinoko, the Japanese word for mushroom, are still eaten today in a wide variety of preparations. Let’s take a look at one of Japan’s more prized mushrooms, the shiitake, and how it’s used in Japanese cuisine today. 

A Brief History 

There are thought to be over 5,000 species of mushrooms that flourish in Japan’s humid climate, however, only about 100 of those are thought to be edible. Many are only available in abundance during the autumn months, and they are enthusiastically foraged when appear each year. As there is such a brief window for wild foraging, methods of drying and preservation have been developed over time, as well as methods of cultivation.

Not all mushrooms have been successfully cultivated by humans, but there is one that reigns supreme in Japan and across the world! That is the shiitake mushroom. Native to East Asia, the shiitake grows naturally on rotting hardwood trees, like chestnut, maple, and sawtooth oak. Records suggest that about 300 years ago Japanese farmers began developing a method to cultivate these mushrooms, overcoming the inconveniences of foraging and setting a path for more plentiful harvests. 

Early Cultivation and Eventual Innovation 

Around the Nara period (710-794) Japanese farmers began experimenting with ways to spawn more shiitake by leaving cut logs in areas of the forest where shiitake were known to grow. These wild-grown mushrooms became known as yama-shiitake, or mountain shiitake. However, as the popularity of this special kinoko grew, this abundance didn’t last long. A new cultivation method was needed, so two new techniques were developed, which are still used by growers worldwide today!

The initial log method was improved through research and experimentation and soon standard techniques were established by Japanese horticulturists and mycologists. Rather than simply being left to their own devices, cut logs were directly inoculated with shiitake spawn and incubated from external elements. Although the process is still time-consuming (it can take up to two years for mushrooms to sprout from a prepared log!) large-scale cultivation of shiitake was made possible. These methods were eventually introduced to the rest of the world where growers continue to innovate and learn more about this special mushroom. 

How are shiitake used? 

Shiitake are one of the most versatile mushrooms in Japanese cuisine. They can be used in stir-fry dishes, added to hot pots, and are one of the staple ingredients in the basic Japanese dashi broth. With the small harvesting windows, shiitake have historically been dried as well as consumed in their raw form, and these practices continue today. You can easily find packets of dried shiitake to use in soups and broths, as well as powdered varieties for seasoning. 

Shiitake aren’t Japan’s only culinary mushrooms! They’re only a window into the wide world of kinoko that Japan has to offer.

About the author: 

Kevin Kilcoyne

The spark that lit Kevin Kilcoyne’s interest in Japanese culture began in elementary school through a friendship with his then classmate Keisuke. Since then, that passion has evolved and bloomed to encompass more than just video games and manga, leading Kevin to live in Japan as a participant of the JET program. During his time in Japan, Kevin sought out as many foods as he could, the experiences and taste memories lingering long after they had gone. Now he is forging a path to link his passions for Japanese food, history, and visual culture and is planning for his return to live in Japan once again. For now, you can find Kevin on Instagram (@waruishouten) where he posts his photography and illustration work. Keep an eye out for more posts and updates as Kevin delves more deeply into his passions for writing and food.