Kissaten: Japan's Retro Cafés Serving Up a Taste of the Past

A sense of shared nostalgia and fondness for the past runs through the pop culture of modern Japan, and many other cultures for that matter. One of the recent retro booms in Japan has been centered around kissaten, retro-style cafés with a timeless charm that captures the essence of various eras across modern Japanese history.

What Are Kissaten?

When you think of a café, you might picture a place with a lively, social atmosphere. Kissaten are a little different.

Rising in popularity post-WWII, kissaten were designed to cater to businessmen, artists, writers, and scholars; people who needed a peaceful place to read, study, and quietly converse over coffee and a small meal. Rather than a location to congregate and chat with friends, these cafés became a respite from the bustle of the outside world, a quiet space to let time unfold slowly.

While a calm and quiet atmosphere is a mainstay of kissaten, they can come in a variety of motifs. Some are themed around Japan’s Taisho period (1912-1926), decorated with antiques, low lighting, and vintage wood everything.  In kissaten specializing in jazz music, known as jazz kissa, vintage records can be heard playing low over the café’s speakers. Similarly, meikyoku kissaten specialize in classical music.

A large portion of popular kissaten, are from Japan’s Showa era (1926-1989). They retain a certain charm that pervades much of Japan’s recent nostalgia boom. Younger generations have been leading the resurgence and reinvigoration of these retro cafés. When asked why, it seems to be a combination of their social media appeal (a.k.a. vibes) and a possible longing for a part of Japan’s history they will never experience; a simpler time. Whatever the reason may be, when you step into a classic kissaten, there is no questioning their appeal. While Tokyo expands with each passing year, streets bustling and skyscrapers growing, the calming silence of kissaten has remained the same.

More than Coffee: Food at Kissaten

Vintage wooden interiors aren’t the only Western-inspired features of a kissaten. Most traditional kissaten menus are made up of unique Western-inspired dishes like spaghetti Napolitan, pizza toast, pancakes, custard puddings, and extravagant fruit parfaits.

Some kissaten also serve what is called a “morning set.” For a little more than the cost of a cup of coffee, you’ll get a small plate of food (or large depending on where you go). Typical accompaniments are toast, boiled eggs, a small salad, and the like. They’re meant to be a light meal to go along with the real star of the kissaten show: the coffee.

If you’re a coffee connoisseur, you’ll be happy to know that many kissaten still roast and grind their own beans. Be warned though, that generally they prefer a darker roast!

Modern Trends

While there has been a resurgence in the popularity of kissaten in recent years, cafés still reign supreme. When Starbucks was introduced to Japan in 1996, an era of chain coffee shops was born. Many of the independently owned kissaten had to find new ways to appeal to younger crowds, but it turns out that they didn’t have to do much! As mentioned throughout this article, the ambiance and atmosphere of kissaten are truly what makes them so special and unique. So, on your next trip to Japan, consider skipping the chain cafes and stopping by a kissaten for your coffee. You just might find yourself transported back to a different, quieter time.

About the author: 

Kevin Kilcoyne

The spark that lit Kevin Kilcoyne’s interest in Japanese culture began in elementary school through a friendship with his then classmate Keisuke. Since then, that passion has evolved and bloomed to encompass more than just video games and manga, leading Kevin to live in Japan as a participant of the JET program. During his time in Japan, Kevin sought out as many foods as he could, the experiences and taste memories lingering long after they had gone. Now he is forging a path to link his passions for Japanese food, history, and visual culture and is planning for his return to live in Japan once again. For now, you can find Kevin on Instagram (@waruishouten) where he posts his photography and illustration work. Keep an eye out for more posts and updates as Kevin delves more deeply into his passions for writing and food.