Yachimun: Wonderful and Whimsical Okinawan Pottery

The quiet backstreets of Tsuboya Odori in Naha take you away from the hustle and bustle of the city and back several centuries to the beginnings of Okinawa’s unique pottery. Called “yachimun” (lit. baked object) this traditional style of ceramics is known for its rustic, whimsical appearance. During the days of the Ryukyu Kingdom artisans combined techniques learned from Chinese, Southeast Asian, and Korean craftsmen to develop a pottery style all their own, using the island’s plentiful resources and drawing inspiration from its beautiful nature.

Yachimun comes from humble beginnings, with local potters making simple goods like rice bowls and storage containers. However, in 1682 the royal court of the Ryukyu Kingdom unified the potters and settled them in what is now Tsuboya. With Shuri Castle having burned in 1660 the restoration project desperately needed red clay tiles. Proximity to the ports in Naha allowed clay to be brought in via boat and the area’s hills were perfect for kilns. Soon the artisans began to share their locally developed methods and further refine their techniques, creating a distinct pottery style.

Ryukyu ceramics continued to thrive until the 1870s when an influx of cheap foreign porcelain decreased the demand. However, in the following decades yachimun was revived as a folk art. With the violence and hardships of World War II production ground to a halt and many of the older pieces were destroyed. However, the Tsuboya area was widely spared from the destruction and work resumed in the kilns soon after the war ended.

By the 1970s the city had once again become an urban center and the smoke from the kilns led to complaints. Soon air pollution laws were instituted and the community was divided. Some potters begrudgingly switched to gas-powered kilns. Others, like Kinjo Jiro, later called Okinawa’s first living national treasure, pushed back and defended their craft. Dedicated to preserving traditional yachimun methods, Kinjo moved from Tsuboya to land in Yomitan recently vacated by US forces. He set up a studio there and soon others followed. By the 1980s Yachimun No Sato, a pottery village still in operation today, was established.

There are two types of yachimun, the first being “arayachi”.  These unglazed pieces are commonly used for preserving alcohol and food. The second type is called “joyachi”. Including items such as sake sets, tableware, tea utensils and cups, and flower vases these glazed pieces are often more decorative. Both styles utilize the island’s natural clay deposits.  For arayachi, red clay and black soil from the south are combined to form its signature burnished color. Meanwhile, for joyachi, red clay is gathered from Yomitan and Nago while the white earth used for finishing details is found in Onna.

Once the clay is gathered it is prepared for shaping through a process called “kikumomi” where the potter kneads the clay in a chrysanthemum (kiku) pattern to remove air and achieve a smooth and workable consistency. After removing the air, it is time for the clay to be shaped on the wheel. Notably different from the techniques used in mainland Japan, yachimun artisans spin their wheels counterclockwise while shaping their pieces. After drying, the pieces are ready for final details to be added. For joyachi, glazes range from white to bright blues and greens made from various metals, minerals, and plant ashes. Popular decorative motifs include various fish and plants which can symbolize blessings of vitality and prosperity. Pieces are then fired in multi-chambered kilns along with small test pots called iromitsubo, which allow potters to check temperatures and firing conditions.

Looking to purchase pieces of your own? Yachimun no Sato in Yomitan is open year-round with various galleries on the property and Tsuboya Odori in Naha is full of pottery shops and cafes. If you are lucky enough to be in Okinawa in February, you can even visit the Yomitan Pottery Festival!

About the author: 

Nadine Pryor

Nadine first became interested in Japan and Japanese culture after working with an exchange program at her university. After hearing so many wonderful things from the exchange students she worked with she was longing for a chance to see Japan for herself. That opportunity came to her in the form of the JET program where she spent 5 years on a small island in the beautiful prefecture of Okinawa. While living in this very rural community of just under 1,300 people she was lucky to experience a glimpse into some of Okinawa’s unique traditions and culture. In her free time, she traveled the main island of Japan as well as eastern Asia, seeking out the most delicious foods and exciting experiences. She currently resides in the United States but hopes to return to Japan in the future.