Kinako Chronicles: A Tale of Soybeans and Sweets

Of the many ingredients used in wagashi, Japanese sweets, one of the most indispensable is kinako. Whether used as a topping, binder, or toasty addition to ice creams and drinks, kinako’s place in Japanese cuisine proves its versatility in the kitchen.

Made from dried, milled, and toasted soybean flour, kinako has a golden color. In its raw form, it has a toasted, nutty flavor and aroma often compared to peanuts. It is often added to both sweet and savory dishes including dressings and the flour of cakes and donuts. A sweetened version is used as a powdery topping for various Japanese confections—particularly mochi—such as daifuku, warabi mochi, dango, and ohagi.

With a history dating back to the 8th century during the Nara period, soybean flour has been used as an ingredient in Japanese cuisine for centuries. That being said, it only became more widespread during the 17th and 18th centuries in Edo Japan as production methods developed and wagashi began to grow in popularity. In fact, the tradition of topping mochi with kinako is thought to have been started by the shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu sometime in the late 16th or early 17th century.

Those traditions stand strong to this day! Most often, when shopping at small stalls and shops specializing in wagashi, you’ll find a healthy layer of kinako powdered atop your treats. In recent times, however, people have begun experimenting with new ways to use kinako in the kitchen. When looking for recipes, you’ll find kinako even added to smoothies, yogurt, and oatmeal for a boost of protein and fiber! There are also other forms of kinako, including a version made from black beans—which is said to have more protein and nutritional value.

Despite the popularity of kinako, domestic production of kinako in Japan mainly utilizes soybeans sourced from outside Japan. This has put a strain on domestic producers, as nearly 90% of all soybeans used in Japan are imported. As such, heirloom varieties of soybeans have become rare in Japan, one of which—tsukui soybeans—has gained the nickname “phantom soybeans.” There are still soybean producers in Japan working hard to keep the tradition and industry alive, working alongside craftspeople and other producers to create local kinako and other products.

So, when shopping for kinako, try to find domestic producers in Japan to help keep their traditions alive! And experiment with new ways to add a toasty, nutty flavor to your recipes. A world of cookies, cakes, breads, dressings, and toppings awaits!

About the Author:

Kevin Kilcoyne