生产者聚焦:市卡拉农场——用荞麦面重建雪乡

荞麦面(日语称作Soba)可以说是日本最受欢迎的面条之一。它有着标志性的灰色和浓郁的坚果香味,既可以热腾腾地泡在汤面里享用,也可以冷着蘸着冰镇酱汁食用。
你或许会惊讶地发现,荞麦其实并非小麦的一种——事实上,严格来说,它根本就不是谷物。荞麦实际上是一种营养丰富的种子,含有全部八种必需氨基酸,并且富含叶黄素、维生素B1、维生素B2和膳食纤维。

日本最常见的荞麦面是用荞麦粉制成的,这种荞麦粉只使用荞麦籽内部的白色部分,然后与小麦混合。而原荞麦面则使用整粒荞麦籽,包括深色的外皮,因此做出来的荞麦面颜色更深,味道更浓郁,口感更有嚼劲,营养也更丰富。一些生产商,例如市佳农场(Ichikara Farms),更进一步,生产出100%纯原荞麦面,不添加任何小麦,品质最高。

市卡拉农场的故事是一个关于重生与复兴的故事。农场位于新潟县雪国地区, 2004年这里曾遭受大地震的重创,引发了多起山体滑坡,摧毁了当地的田野和牧场。创始人吉田雄道当时在北海道做兼职农民。地震中,他父母的房子倒塌了,于是他决定回家帮忙重建。他原本打算回到北海道,但命运另有安排。

While helping a local ranch being rebuilt, he began to feel a strong connection to his surroundings. He saw the potential to regenerate the land through the cultivation of local soba. Despite numerous challenges, difficulties and the ever-present unpredictability of nature, Yudo was able to transform an abandoned pasture into what is now 30 hectares of farmland in the Uonuma and Ojiya districts. The farm has since expanded to include farming, harvesting, selecting, shelling, milling, noodle and stone mill powder making, and mobile truck sales.

市良农场也通过各种合作支持当地其他企业。他们将部分荞麦面储存在当地特有的天然雪冰箱——“雪室”中。雪室可以用来储存蔬菜、肉类、咖啡甚至酒类,只有在鱼沼等多雪地区才能建造。这种独特的冷藏方式能将淀粉转化为糖分,使食物更甜,有助于肉类熟成,并降低咖啡和酒类中的醛含量,使其口感更柔和。一吨雪可以替代10升石油和30公斤二氧化碳的使用,考虑到每个雪室每年需要使用400-700吨雪,这将产生显著的环境效益!他们还将荞麦面供应给一家专门酿造荞麦啤酒的当地啤酒厂。

Ichikara Farms is committed to making products that are safe from both an environmental and food perspective. Instead of using chemical fertilizers or pesticides, they use bi-products from mushroom beds and buckwheat shells and husks, the create natural fertilizers for their soil.
Above all, they are thankful for what nature and the people of Snow Country Niigata have taught them about connection and regeneration.
Learn more about Ishikara Farms at http://www.ichikarabatake-soba.com/