Wanko Soba: The Never-Ending Noodle Challenge

Japan is replete with affordable all-you-can-eat restaurants and zany food challenges–and the cities of Hanamaki and Morioka in Iwate Prefecture are no exception. While Iwate is known for its traditional ironware, ceramic handicrafts, and splendid ski slopes, it is also known for its noodles. Here you can enjoy wanko soba, a regional variation of soba served in seemingly never-ending small bowls by masterful wait staff who ensure that no one leaves the table hungry. 

There are several popular stories regarding the origins of wanko soba. One tells the tale of a local landowner who, while hosting a festival, realized that he did not have enough soba to feed the hundreds of villagers gathering at the event. In the face of this realization, the clever landowner devised a plan to serve the soba in small dishes called “wanko”, ensuring that there would be enough to go around. 

Other stories claim the dish comes from a more regal lineage. About 380 years ago, Toshinao Nanbu, the lord of the Nanbu region, was passing through the area on his way to Edo (present-day Tokyo).  Some rumors say that the lord offered small bowls of soba to the locals in an effort to ease tensions. But the storyline is blurry; conflicting accounts say that it was the locals who served the dish to the lord when he requested a meal. Fearing the food might be too rustic and plain for his tastes, they were shocked when he asked for more, and dishedup bowl after bowl until he was satisfied. 

Regardless of its background, wanko soba has since become a regional specialty. What’s more, the dining experience has become an exciting attraction for visitors. Upon arriving at a wanko soba restaurant, diners are often outfitted with bibs or aprons to protect their clothes from splashing broth and noodles. From there, the table is designated a server who holds a tray piled high with small bowls of soba. The server tips the mouthfuls of noodles into your dish and as soon as you are done, you’ll find that it is magically replenished. Some restaurants even have a special cheer to encourage you to eat more. Traditionally, the first bowls are eaten plain to truly taste the noodles. However, they can also be flavored with broth, green onions, grated daikon radish, and seaweed. The waitstaff is trained to keep serving until you place the lid fully on your bowl. Even saying you’re full won’t get them to stop!

Typically, fifteen of the wanko bowls equate to one normal-sized bowl. Women tend to eat about 30 to 40 bowls while men average 50 to 60. Empty bowls are stacked on the table and at the end of the experience, many wanko soba restaurants offer certificates stating the number of bowls consumed, which makes for a fun souvenir. The record number of bowls eaten in one sitting, according to JAL OnTrip, is 632. Each year, both Morioka and Hanamaki host wanko soba contests where challengers from across the country come to see how many bowls they can eat in just five minutes. 

While it may seem a bit gluttonous to some, wanko soba is seen as a food of hospitality in Iwate. Each small bowl is meant to welcome customers and encourage them to share in this delicious dining tradition. 

Looking to try soba at home? Check out our traditional soba or eat adventurously with our matcha soba!

About the author

 Nadine Pryor
Nadine first became interested in Japan and Japanese culture after working with an exchange program at her university. After hearing so many wonderful things from the exchange students she worked with she was longing for a chance to see Japan for herself. That opportunity came to her in the form of the JET program where she spent 5 years on a small island in the beautiful prefecture of Okinawa. While living in this very rural community of just under 1,300 people she was lucky to experience a glimpse into some of Okinawa’s unique traditions and culture. In her free time, she traveled the main island of Japan as well as eastern Asia, seeking out the most delicious foods and exciting experiences. She currently resides in the United States but hopes to return to Japan in the future.