Fugu: The Potentially Lethal Yet Luxurious Delicacy of Japanese Puffer Fish

There are few Japanese foods with as strong a reputation as fugu. While seen as a luxury fish in Japan, some might wonder why anyone would take such a risk. How dangerous is it really, what does it taste like and could it truly be worth it? 

Known for containing the potentially fatal poison tetrodotoxin, fugu, or puffer fish, needs to be meticulously prepared by certified chefs who have undergone 3 or more years of rigorous training. Japanese law requires would-be fugu chefs to obtain a license through a multi-step examination, including a written portion, a fish identification test, and a practical test where they must prepare and eat the fugu. With a 35% pass rate, it’s no joke! Lives are potentially on the line, after all. 

It hasn’t always been legal to sell and consume fugu, however. During both the Edo (1603-1868) and Meiji (1867-1912) periods, the sale and consumption of fugu was banned. Despite this, western regions of Japan (where the ruling Shogunate had less power) continued refining safer methods of preparation. 

With this kind of history, it is no wonder that the sale and preparation of such a potentially dangerous fish is so strictly regulated. While prepared fugu can be purchased in stores (where proper licensure must be clearly displayed) the sale of whole fish remains prohibited. Chefs must even store and maintain records of the discarded organs and carcasses of the fish they prepare, especially the liver, ovaries, eyes, and skin, where the poison is the most concentrated. Despite this, there is a well-known underground market for fugu liver, the sale of which has been banned in Japan since 1984! 

Fugu is typically harvested in spring during spawning season and then farmed in cages off the coast of Japan. Demand (and therefore prices) begins to rise in autumn and peaks in winter as the fish fatten up to withstand the harsh temperatures of the Pacific Ocean. The largest fugu market is in Shimonoseki, in southwestern Japan. 

In addition to the harvested and farmed fugu, there are also aquaculture farmers in Japan who have been producing poison-free fugu by raising them in environments that keep them away from the bacteria thought to be responsible for the development or sequestering of tetrodotoxin. This is a large step toward safer fugu consumption, and for some hopefuls, a loosening of restrictions on the sale of fugu liver. 

Now with all this talk about fugu, how do people actually eat it? Some of the most popular preparations are sashimi and in the winter shabu shabu, a nabemono (hot pot) dish where diners slowly swish thinly sliced pieces of fugu in a hot broth at their table. With a mild flavor, fugu is often served with ponzu sauce, scallions, chilies, or grated radish to help enhance it. Another popular (and delicious) preparation for fugu is tempura. The crispy texture of the batter pairs perfectly with the delicate texture of the fish. There are also centuries-old practices of pickling fugu in rice bran and even methods of preparing the gelatinous skin into thin strips resembling noodles. 

However you decide to try fugu, if you are enjoying it at a restaurant in Japan, chances are you are in good hands. With strict regulations and highly trained chefs, it truly is a luxury to eat!

About the author: 

Kevin Kilcoyne

The spark that lit Kevin Kilcoyne’s interest in Japanese culture began in elementary school through a friendship with his then classmate Keisuke. Since then, that passion has evolved and bloomed to encompass more than just video games and manga, leading Kevin to live in Japan as a participant of the JET program. During his time in Japan, Kevin sought out as many foods as he could, the experiences and taste memories lingering long after they had gone. Now he is forging a path to link his passions for Japanese food, history, and visual culture and is planning for his return to live in Japan once again. For now, you can find Kevin on Instagram (@waruishouten) where he posts his photography and illustration work. Keep an eye out for more posts and updates as Kevin delves more deeply into his passions for writing and food.